Article and photo by Lisa Crockett
Every once in a while, I get curious about how other cultures express
their traditions in the kitchen. To satisfy that curiosity, I have made
my fair share of globe-spanning tidbits. Though I do not generally
have these exotic dishes as part of my regular dinnertime rotation, I
have been known to whip up a batch of potstickers from scratch, slave
over pillowy homemade gnocchi, and pull a respectable babka from my
oven. As I have begun to plan my Easter menu for this year, I got
curious about what people might be putting on their tables for the
observance of Passover, a holiday I have only rudimentary knowledge of.
Many years ago (I was a teenager,) I was honored to be invited to a
Passover seder at a local synagogue, where the rabbi explained the
significance of all the dishes served. The details of that evening are
lost in the recesses of my memory, but I do remember it being quite
fascinating. I decided to do a little research and introduce at least a
few of the ideas of the feast of the Passover at my own dinner table
one evening. Passover celebrates the exodus of the Jews from their
enslavement in Egypt, and much of the meal symbolizes the hardships the
Jews endured – salt water to symbolize tears, broken matzah to symbolize
the parting of the Red Sea, and an empty place set at the table
reserved for the prophet Elijah. As I researched the traditions of the
meal, I ran across a tempting component of the meal called charoset.
I whipped up a quick batch of the fruity side dish from ingredients in
my fridge and pantry. Apparently, the apple dish was popular in ancient
Palestine, and for the purposes of Passover, came to represent the
mortar of the bricks Jewish slaves were forced to lay for their Egyptian
masters. I explained this to my children over dinner, while I served
it to them as part of a regular weeknight meal. My explanation likely
fell on deaf ears, however, since they were so busy shoveling it into
their mouths and asking for second and third helpings. This dish,
unlike so many other exotic offerings I’ve tried, is likely to become a
regular part of our menu at home. It is fairly nutritious, tastes
delicious, and comes together in a flash.
Some versions of charoset are rumored to have 40 ingredients (to
symbolize 40 years in the desert), but most recipes I encountered were
much simpler than that. In all of them, peeled, finely chopped or
pureed apples are mixed with nuts, spices and wine to make a zesty,
fresh-tasting compote. For Passover, kosher-for-Passover wine is used,
and some versions include ground matzah for thickening. I was happy to
note that the variations on the dish were virtually endless, and since
my pantry was lacking in a few of the more traditional components, I
improvised with things I had on hand. For instance, I didn’t have any
kosher wine, so I subbed in a deliciously sweet and tangy balsamic
vinegar I had bought at a specialty store on a whim and had been saving
for a special occasion. In addition to the traditional cinnamon, I
added a dash of cardamom to add a different dimension to the dish’s
flavor. Walnuts are usually used, but I like pecans better, so that is
what landed in my dish. The next time I make charoset, which will be
soon, I think I will add a diced pear and a handful of golden raisins.
Charoset is often used to top matzah, but at our table it was a
delicious accompaniment for chicken. After the meal ended, my kids ate
the leftovers as a bedtime snack and groaned with disappointment when
the last spoonful was eaten. Lucky for them, it is so easy to make that I
have adopted it as a regular to our mealtimes, so it will show up again
and again. I may even serve it as part of our Easter dinner as a nod
to the things so many cultures share: good food, holiday traditions, and
the hope that comes with the arrival of spring.
Charoset
3-4 large apples, any variety, peeled and chopped (to equal about three cups)
1/4 cup honey
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cardamom
1/2 cup chopped pecans
Mix apples with honey, vinegar and spices, stir well. Let mixture sit
for five minutes to allow flavors to blend. Gently stir in nuts and
serve immediately.